From supplements to gadgets: the beauty movements that will change everything
Dec 14, 2017
With non-stop product launches and a never-ending stream of trends born on social media, the beauty industry thrives on newness, but some movements are very significant. Last year may have kick started the anti-pollution stance in beauty (still going strong, by the way), and this year saw probiotic products and spiritual skincare have their moments (mostly wrapped in millennial pink packaging), while the wider conversation centred on overdue diversity in the beauty-sphere. But how will these develop for 2018? And what’s next? Here are ten of the biggest trends to have on your radar.
1. All kinds of masks
Thanks to its selfie-appeal and the rise of Insta trends such as the #SundayFacial, face masks are going nowhere – just ask Superdrug who has seen sales double as they struggle to keep up with demand. In 2018 the mask market is further branching out, and getting more sophisticated. Dr Gary Goldfaden – the dermatologist behind brand Goldfaden MD, says to expect “more body specific masks for the chest, arms and breasts”, plus presumably the hands, given that Swiss Clinic has recently launched a new Hand Restoring Dry Mask. “Trending masks will target specific problem solution needs as well as ageing issues,” he adds. A case in point are micro-channelling patches, such as Radara’s 3D-printed eye patches that claim to erase crow’s feet. Similar, are new self-dissolving micro-needle masks, which “feature tiny micro-needles formed from active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid,” explains Daniel Issacs, Formulation and Development Director, Medik8. “When applied to the skin, these needles create microscopic pathways to increase the absorption of the sheet mask serum.”
2. Treating your body as you would your face
“Body skincare will become as important as skincare for the face,” predicts GP and skin specialist, Dr Anita Sturnham. Expect to see – and actually use – cleansers, serums and acid exfoliators for the body, in addition to moisturisers with SPF. Consider it the Brazilian approach to anti-ageing; they tend to beautify the body’s largest organ from top-to-toe. Sure, their weather calls for more exposure of flesh than ours, but given that the skin is prone to dryness and irritation in colder climates, weactually have more reason to keep it hydrated, and therefore healthy. Start now with the Paula’s Choice Resist Skin Revealing Body Lotion 10% AHA and the Clarins Renew-Plus Body Serum.
3. Environmentally-friendly products and packaging
Beauty isn’t an industry celebrated for its eco credentials, but that looks set to change. “I expect to see more of a shift towards plant based plastics in 2018 and glass, too, as the consumer becomes more aware of the harm plastic is causing when not disposed of safely or recycled,” says Marie Lavabre, founder of ‘clean’ beauty brand KINN. There’s also a move towards using less water in products (the industry’s most used ingredient), given that demand could outstrip supply. Look now to Lush’s packaging-free Naked range, which boasts richer ingredients and less water. Meanwhile, the ‘cleansing reduction’ movement has spanned to showering and bathing less, as people realise that over-washing isn’t good for the planet or the skin.
4. Skincare supplements
Dr Sturnham is convinced that “introducing a supplement into our skincare will become commonplace.” She recommends taking marine collagen in powder form (not liquid, “as they break down”). Try Beauty Complex mixed into your smoothies, which she says, “is supplied by highly regarded leaders in collagen research and production, backed by clinical trials.” Facialist to the famous (including Meghan Markle), Nichola Joss, recommends Lumity supplements, which were created by Cambridge University graduate Sara Palmer Hussey PhD. The day and night capsules contain a clinically-tested blend of anti-ageing nutrients, helping protect against oxidative stress and damage.
5. Bespoke everything
Perhaps the biggest all-encompassing beauty trend is that for bespoke. In a shift that neatly mirrors the industry’s late move towards greater diversity, brands are putting you first. From a personalised approach to make-up (such as Trinny London’s computer-generated prescription of products) and Eyeko’s bespoke mascara service, to skincare which tackles anti-ageing at its source, by factoring in DNA analysis – in beauty brand ALLÉL’s case. It’s no longer one-size-fits-all.
6. Gender neutral beauty
While it may be all about you, it’s not necessarily all about your sex in 2018 as the growing conversations on gender impacts all areas of beauty. It’s nothing new in fragrance, where many old and new launches are positioned as unisex. “This actually goes back to the roots of perfume where fragrances were made to be worn by both men and women,” says Andrew Goetz, founder of brands Atelier Bloem and Malin + Goetz. Moving things forwards elsewhere in beauty are new haircare brands like Løre Originals who hope to make ‘his and hers’ products a thing of the past, as does teen skincare brand Sam Farmer – set up by a stay-at-home dad turned cosmetic scientist. Then, of course, there’s the likes of Deciem (including The Ordinary and NIOD), Aesop and Grown Alchemist – the coolest beauty brands on the block who are too concerned with performance to worry about whether they’re for guys or girls.
7. Active beauty buys
With a Google consumer survey finding that 78% of us don’t know what products to use before and after exercise, it’s a no brainer that brands like Pretty Athletic have developed skincare exclusively for active women, while Clinique is adding a high-performance range to it’s line-up called Clinique Fit. The products target exercise-specific concerns (from clogged pores to redness), and other gym-bag essentials are coming thick and fast from brands boasting breathable make-up. E.l.f’s new Active range includes a Workout Ready Eyeliner Pencil, Sweat Resistant Mascara and Brow Duo, plus a Lip & Cheek Palette that they promise won’t clog pores when you workout, plus Primark Beauty is relaunching its targeted Work Out make-up range in the spring.
8. Go-go gadgets
Portable beauty tech makes advanced anti-ageing more accessible and in 2018 you won’t only pop your hair tools into your weekend bag, but light therapy masks and microneedling devices too. Most popular is probably the derma roller, of which has seen a 345% increases in saves on Pinterest. Our favourite is the GloPRO Microneedling Regeneration Tool which while great for the face also comes with a body head to address other problem areas. Following up the launch of its revolutionary light therapy mask to treat acne comes Neutrogena’s new Light Therapy Targeted Acne Spot Treatment for spots of bother. For eyes, devices like the SENSSE Eye Massager, utilising sonic high frequency vibration, and Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare’s light therapy mask SpectraLite EyeCare Pro promise to smooth smile lines fast. Expect others brands to follow suit.
9. Canabiskincare
Every year a forgotten ingredient tends to return to the forefront, and for 2018 it seems cannabis will set the industry alight. Co-founder of Cult Beauty, Alexia Inge, explains that, “The legalisation of Marijuana [in LA] has led to a flurry of research on the effects it has on the human body. It’s widely celebrated for its medicinal properties, but one of the unexpected side effects was the discovery of how amazingly calming and anti-inflammatory certain cannabinoids are on the skin”. Next year, Cult Beauty are launching some cannabis-based brands including MGC Derma in January and Marley Natural in March. This comes as Malin+Goetz recently added a Cannabis eau de parfum into its range celebrating the ingredient, and The Escentric Molecules released Escentric 04 with cannabis as one it its notes.
10. Water weight foundations
Will the contouring trend finally rest in peace next year? Well the steady rise in weightless foundations, with water-light textures, looks set to put the focus firmly back onto complexions in celebration of real skin (albeit, a heightened version of it) instead of a full-coverage, matte visage with clearly sculpted cheekbones. There’s much hype around The Ordinary’s forthcoming Watercolours foundation, with a formula that’s thinner than water and a look that’s “super natural” on the skin. Equally affordable is Rimmel’s most lightweight long-wearing formula, the Lasting Finish Breathable Foundation, while in the luxury line-up Estee Lauder’s Double Wear Nude “water fresh make-up” is flying the flag. When it comes to colours, we won’t take less than all-inclusive (even Pinterest are reporting a 378% increase in searches for “complexion matching”) with expectations for Fenty Beauty’s 40 shade range to become the norm for all.
